The Tails Pet Centre Knowledge Centre and FAQs
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You may return any item for refund/credit or exchange for any reason if it is in “resalable” condition within 30 days. (This policy does not apply to custom made items.) This warranty does not cover normal wear and tear that results from the use of our products. Use of our products in a manner other than that for which they were manufactured also nullifies this warranty. Tails Pet Centre’s goal is to continually update and improve our products. Because of this process, some product images, logos, and labels on the website are subject to vary from time to time. Please contact us if you have any questions or concerns regarding our warranty policy.
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Currently we are offering Click and Collect. If you live within a reasonable distance from our store and cannot pick up your order please contact us for a delivery. Delivery to locations further out will be considered on request.
Yes, typically we are able to meet all expected needs for a rush order… To accommodate your expedited shipping needs, call us directly on (08) 8263 5570, Monday – Friday, 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM. Or email us anytime at email@example.com for shipping options and delivery expectations.
No, Tails Pet Centre is not currently providing International Shipping. You can contact us regarding your international order on +61 88263 5570, Monday – Friday, 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM AEST. Or email us anytime at firstname.lastname@example.org
Your immediate confirmation is available for you to print at the end of the checkout process, once your purchase is complete. A confirmation email will be sent to your attention once your order has been processed and again once your order has shipped. Occasionally these emails are blocked by your SPAM filter or placed in your junk mail folder.
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The information you provide will be used only by Tails Pet Centre and will not be sold to any Third Parties. After a purchase, your account will be entered into the Tails Pet Centre system, which can then be used for any in-store purchases, entitling you to any applicable member's discounts.
For information about security please look at the 'Is this a secure site?' FAQ.
It is mandatory for all dogs and cats to be microchipped in South Australia. New pets are to be microchipped by the age of 12 weeks, or within 28 days of acquiring the animal.
The microchipping procedure is simple, and your local vet will perform this and most will register the microchip details on your behalf with Dogs and Cats online. Your local council will often offer discounted rates for microchipping & desexing.
Follow the link to find out more about microchipping and the law: Dogs and Cats online
There are many reasons for getting them desexed:
1) it is South Australian law for dogs and cats born after 1st July 2018 to be desexed before they are 6 months old
2) desexing reduces aggression and roaming behaviours
3) it reduced mating behaviours
4) it reduces the risk of cancers of the reproductive system
5) it reduces the strain on shelters and pounds
6) it prevents the need for euthanising unwanted animals
Dogs and cats need a cool, shady place to sleep during hot weather, as well as plenty of clean, fresh water, accessible at all times. Feed your dog or cat in the cooler hours of the day. Older animals have a hard time in hot weather, so be extra sensitive to their needs during the hottest parts of the day.
Smaller animals including rabbits, guinea pigs, ferrets, birds, rats and mice are highly susceptible to heat stress (which can be fatal). These animals are often confined in cages and hutches and are unable to move away to cooler places. Owners need to move these animals in cool, shaded and well-ventilated areas in hot weather. They also require clean, fresh drinking water at all times. On very hot days you may need to bring them indoors, for example the laundry.
As with many things in life, when it comes to the health of your pet- prevention is better than a cure. The key to keeping costs down is to take a long-term approach to your pets health. To do this:
- Make sure your pet gets an annual check-up
- Make sure your pet is vaccinated
- Make sure your pet is wormed
- Feed your pet properly (with good quality food)
- Exercise your pet regularly
Carbon, or activated carbon, is used as a chemical filtration media. It helps to remove many organic and inorganic materials dissolved in tank water – it keeps the aquarium water clear, and removes odours. Activated carbon works by using absorption and adsorption.
Rainwater would seem the natural choice in fish environments as this is theoretically what their natural habitat consists of. However, for various reasons, the rainwater we collect is not the same as the water found in rivers. Rain collected in suburbia can be affected from a host of issues which will change the quality, a few of which are: Airborne pollutants from traffic and industry; Tannins from leaf matter especially eucalyptus; Waste residue on the roof from fauna such as birds, possums & rodents. Having these on our roofs presents problems when they break down and over time form ammonia and other harmful chemicals. One way to remove these is to filter the water through a quality filtration system such as reverse osmosis. Once it has been filtered you will need to still treat the water with a Tap Water Conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramines as they will still be present. One suggestion is to mix treated rainwater with tap water at a 50/50 ratio.
Tropical: Bristlenose Catfish are fantastic for cleaning the tank, and Corydoras are good bottom feeders too. Consider also the mysteriously named ‘Mystery Snail’ as a tank cleaner. Cold water: Sucking catfish, either in the silver or gold variety.
All the cold water fish are generally able to go together. You would generally choose goldfish for a pond, so either Comets, Fantails or Ranchus. Comets are the hardiest of the goldfish varieties, which is another thing for customers to consider. It is considered best to re-stock ponds in spring, as the weather gets warmer – though make sure that there are some shaded areas in the pond.
If the water is likely to get very cold, then you could introduce a heater. The optimal temperature for coldwater fish is between 15-20 °C, but they can survive more extreme temperatures. The risk, however, is that fish are more prone to stress and disease outside of these ideals.
The usual concern is the water. A quick solution and usually the most effective, is doing a water change. Next step would be to check the pH, temperature and ammonia levels of the water. If the fish are new to the tank, then consider adding some Stress Coat and/or Quick Start (Quick Start helps to start a healthy bacterial cycle in the tank, while Stress Coat will help to reduce fish stress). If the water is ok, this can be ruled out and we then look at the possibility that the fish are ill. You can sometimes see abnormal features or behaviours in the fish. Consider fish disease treatment options.
We offer water testing here at the store and can help make diagnosis and find a solution.
The technical name is Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis but is commonly known as 'white spot'.
This can be treated with Blue Planet White spot remedy.
The sooner that it is caught the better, and from our experience, the recovery is good!
Testing for ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, hardness, alkalinity, pH and temperature should be conducted on a weekly basis and if not meeting standards water changes should be run.
For more information on common water issues and solutions to them follow the link to the Tetra website.
One of the most low maintenance fish are venerable bettas, also known as the Siamese fighting fish. These fish offer bright colours in a variety of shades whilst remaining very low maintenance. They are from a tropical environment so do require a properly heated environment and it is also essential to keep only one of these species!
If you're looking to get a few fish, or want to have a cold water tank, then goldfish are the way to go! There are several varieties and a range of colours makes them a great choice.
However, this does not mean that you can escape water changing and cleaning your tank, this is still essential to keeping your fish healthy and happy.
We stock both these fish types so come in store and we can help with your needs.
A buildup of ammonia is generally caused by the decomposition of uneaten food and other organic matter in an aquarium. Ammonia is also one of the major waste products fishes produce and is commonly excreted through their gills. Ammonia levels can be kept balanced through frequent water changes and careful feeding. Most fish should only be fed twice a day, enough they can consume within several minutes. If ammonia levels are to rise, you may begin to see reddening gills and/or bloody patches on the fish’s body, along with lethargic or dying fish.
The first thing you should do if your aquarium has high levels of ammonia is a 25% water change followed by another test. If you still have high levels of ammonia you should look into buying some sort of treatment. For example, the API Ammo Lock, which treats excess ammonia by locking it up into a non-toxic form until it can be broken down by the aquarium’s natural biological filtration, is a great option for a quick fix.
Nitrite is a naturally occurring chemical typically caused by the breakdown of ammonia in aquariums. However, it can also be caused via uneaten fish food, decaying plants and dirty filters. High levels of nitrite are toxic to fish and can cause suffocation as it binds with an oxygen-carrying protein called hemoglobin and forms methemoglobin, which is essentially oxidized hemoglobin, however it can no longer carry any oxygen.
To treat high nitrite you should first do a 25% water change, followed by some fast filter start, such as Seachem Stability, to help boost the natural bacteria in your tank. To help support the health of your fish while your tank readjusts you can add a small amount of aquarium salt. Continue to monitor your tank, repeating water changes and the addition of fast filters starters as necessary until the nitrite levels in your tank have dropped back to normal.
Nitrate is a biproduct of ammonia; however, it is significantly less toxic for marine life than ammonia. Nitrate is used by aquatic plants to grow and can also lead to algae growth if left to accumulate in large quantities. Although nitrates are not necessarily toxic to fish, long term exposure to high levels can cause them stress, stunt their growth, damage organs, and make them more susceptible to diseases.
Treating high nitrates is as simple as it gets. All you need to do is a water change as that will instantly and permanently remove the nitrate from the system. In fact, if you do a 25% water change, you will remove 25% of the nitrate in your tank. If you are unsure of how much nitrate you need to remove, a safe starting place would be around 50%, followed by a test, and perhaps another 20% if necessary.
pH is a simple means of measuring whether your aquarium water is acidic or basic (aka alkaline). pH is measured on a scale of 0-14, with 0-6 being considered acidic, 7 being considered neutral, and 8-14 being considered basic. pH is important as the fish, plants, and invertebrates we keep in aquariums often come from habitats with specific pH levels. Maintaining this pH level is only vital for fish collected in the wild. Those which have been raised in an aquarium by breeders should be kept in the same pH they were raised in, even if it differs to that of their habitat. This is because changes in pH can be harmful and potentially even fatal if the changes are drastic or happen too suddenly.
All diets can be divided into two groups; premium science based diets such as Royal Canin, Black Hawk, Meals for Mutts, Advance and Hills Science Diet and other premium grain free diets such as Phoenix and Ivory Coat. Premium diets provide your pet with the best quality diet that is fully balanced, has the best quality ingredients, is prepared according to a consistent formula and is very concentrated so you have to feed less to achieve more. Different breeds and ages need different diets so please ask our staff what the best food for your dog is.
This is typically dependent on your dog, consider the following factors; A ‘tube’ treatment needs the coat to be completely dry prior to application, consider this when bathing your dog and also the rain, if they area an outside dog. Be mindful when patting your pet post-application and keep them dry for the next 48 hours. Most popular tube treatment is Frontline which is available for cats as well as dogs. For ‘chewable’ options, Nexgard flea treatments are the most popular choice, which again treats all the life stages of fleas. If the dog is fussy with eating, then the tubes would be a better option. Some people find it harder to apply in the liquid tubes form, and find it quicker to give the chew to the dog.
There are a number of products available that are helpful for maintaining healthy teeth, but they do not replace the need for brushing. Brushing your dog’s teeth is so important and can save you potentially thousands of dollars at the vet. Greenies are good for the teeth, and come in a range of different sizes, as well as different flavours (Original, Blueberry, and Mint). Greenies also offer a cat range. Whimzees are also great canine dental products, and are recommended because they are all naturally sourced, are vegetable based, and grain-free. There are other products like dog toothbrushes, toothpaste, water additives and Plaque Off that can help. Certain foods also have a specific focus on dental, such as Hills Oral Care. Bones are great for dog’s teeth; we often have a number of smoked bones available at the shop which are suitable for many breeds of dogs.
The most popular worming treatment would be Advocate. This does Fleas, Heartworm and Worms, and comes in sets of 3 month or 6 month treatments. They come in a tube form that can be squeezed on the back of the neck after parting the fur. However Advocate does not treat Tapeworm. Drontal Allwormers are a reputable product, which cover most worms but not heartworm. Aristopet dog worming tablets are also available at our store for individual sale, this product does include tapeworm but not heartworm. Consider what worming your dog will need, and consider any vaccinations your dog receives at the vet.
Heartworm is a parasite that is transferred to your pet through mosquito bites.
It is a worm that is dangerous in its adult stages, and needs to be treated before/in larval stage.
If undiagnosed and untreated it can be fatal, and even treatment can be risky.
Cats love to groom themselves and as a result hairballs can occur. Most hair ingested can be handled by their digestive system, however, some can't pass through the intestinal tract and so are vomited instead. Some solutions to prevent this from happening are:
- Groom your cat regularly- The more fur you remove from your cat the less fur that will end up ingested.
- Provide specialist "hairball formula" food- These are designed to improve the health of your cat's coat, minimise shedding and encourage hairballs to pass through the digestive system.
- Use hairball product- These help hairballs to pass through the digestive system
- Discourage excessive grooming- If your cat grooms excessively, try to train your cat do do other enjoyable activities.
There are a number of varieties:
- Clumping litter: easy to scoop out as clumps are formed when the waste is absorbed
- Non-clumping litter: typically cheaper than clumping, this litter is good for scooping out faeces but needs to be changed more regularly to reduce urine smells
- Crystals: these have no odour or dust and can last a while
- Recycled Paper: these are easily composted and better for the environment, as well as easy cleanup and absorption
Litter changes should be done gradually. Place the tray in an area of privacy. Trays which are enclosed or with rims can typically reduce the spread of waste.
Purring is thought to be somewhat instinctive whilst also being somewhat intentional. Cats will often purr for many reasons, most commonly when they feel as though they are in a relaxed and comforting environment. However, cats have also been known to purr when injured or just after a stressful event as a way to self-soothe and can even be a form of healing.
Typically, cats will need to be given a bath at least once every 4-6 weeks. This will depend on factors such as how often your cat grooms themselves, and the environment they're usually in. If your cat tends to be more outdoorsy and plays in dirtier environments, it's a good idea to help with the grooming process often as they alone won't be able to properly get cleaned. If your cat is an indoor cat, you should pay attention to how well they can groom themselves to determine how often they need a hand.
Catnip is actually one of the 250 species in the mint family and contains a natural essential oil called Nepetalactone. This essential oil is what can turn most cats into a furball of chaos – however, some cats who have not inherited the trait causing sensitivity to catnip will experience no change in behavior. This trait is hereditary and will occur in 70-80% of cats but will generally not emerge until they are 3-6 months old.
Researchers believe that catnip targets the ‘happy’ receptors in the feline brain, therefore it is most strongly absorbed through the nose. Just one sniff can make your fluffball go nuts. Cats can react in a variety of ways, some may begin rolling around on the floor, rubbing themselves against anything and everything they can, some may become quite vocal, while others may become hyperactive or downright aggressive. Interestingly, eating catnip tends to have the opposite effect and allows most cats to calm down. Typically, either of these ‘sessions’ will last 5-10 minutes, however it may take roughly 2 hours for your kitty to become susceptible to the effects of catnip again. When using catnip, you should always be careful, even though cats are extremely unlikely to overdose, they can still become sick if they’ve had too much. Always trust when your feline friend tells you that they’ve had enough.
Kneading is an instinctive behavior which typically conveys comfort. Cats will often knead whilst they are being pet or as they snuggle into a napping spot. Cats may also knead while on your lap to express love and serenity. Kneading can also be a way for your cat to mark something using the scent glands on their paw pads.
Your budgie will need quite a few bits and pieces included in their cage. Starting off however, you will need to make sure you get a cage big enough to comfortably house your budgie. The minimum size requirement for a cage housing one budgie is roughly 45cm x 45cm x 45cm, and 60cm x 45cm x 45cm for a pair.
Once you have a suitable cage you can then begin to design the new home. You will need to include some perches so that your budgie can move around the cage at different heights. You will need food and water bowls which will need to be refilled every 1-2 days. Something for your budgie to chew on, a calcium, charcoal, or iodine bell is a great option that also assists the health of your friend. A swing, preferably made of grit as this will help with your budgie’s claws. Some toys which are suitable for budgies, keeping in mind their small size, and some mirrors as well. You will also need something to line the base of the cage such as newspaper or paper towels which will need to be replaced daily.
You may also need a “security blanket” to cover up the cage at night. This can be any old towel or sheet that you have lying around, as long as it’s big enough to fit over the entire cage and blocks out a substantial amount of light. This may not be necessary for some budgies; however, others will not be able to sleep without it. It’s recommended to use a blanket for the first couple of nights and carefully check on them every so often to see if they are sleeping. If needed, this “security blanket” will need to be over the cage for around 12 hours as that will allow the bird to remain well rested.
Your budgie should not be kept outside permanently however they will be more than happy to spend a couple of hours in the sun. Just make sure that it’s not too warm for them. Budgies thrive in temperatures between 21°C-23°C however they can withstand temperatures ranging from 16°C-26°C. If for whatever reason your budgie cannot be kept within this temperature range for a day or two, provide a bird bath to help them cool off. Ideally, your budgie cage should be kept in a spot with plenty of natural light but out of direct sunlight and breezes. Preferably somewhere with lots of movement from family members as this will help your budgie become accustomed to humans.
When it comes to handling your budgie, make sure you take them out of the cage daily for a minimum of 1-2 hours. This can be spread over 5–10-minute intervals during the day or all at once, whichever suits your lifestyle best. Slowly place your hand in the cage while speaking softly to your budgie. At first they may be hesitant and fearful but you shouldn’t let this deter you. Keep your hand in the cage slowly moving closer to them until they perch on your finger. You can then take them out of the cage and continue to hold them close to you while speaking softly and providing some treats. Over time, your budgie will gain more trust and become comfortable around you. This process may take 2 days, weeks, or months but don’t give up, your budgie will settle once they realize you mean no harm.
Cockatiels require a much larger cage than most other household birds such as canaries, budgies, and finches. They should be kept in a cage with dimensions of 60cm x 60m x 60cm at a minimum, keeping in mind that bigger is far better when it comes to housing. If you are looking at owning a pair of cockatiels, you will need a cage of 60cm x 60cm x 90cm. Your cockatiel’s cage should be located in a family room or bedroom, somewhere social and active but never outside. Keep in mind that birds are sensitive to strong smells, gases, smoke, and drafts so they should be kept away from the kitchen and open windows.
In your cockatiels cage you should include multiple food and water bowls, preferably one near the bottom of the cage and one towards the top. This will ensure that your bird always has access to food and water. It may be beneficial to investigate buying an automatic waterer so that they are never left without. Your cockatiels main diet should consist of pelleted food or birdseed with the addition of cuttlebone, shell grit or charcoal/iodine bells for calcium. You can feed your bird dark leafy greens and fresh veggies every other day, however this should be no more than 20% of their daily dietary intake. You may also want to offer your bird some treats every few weeks, this can be in the form of millet sprays or a honey stick.
Inside the cage you should include multiple toys to keep them entertained and busy. This will prevent behaviors such as feather picking and aggression. They will also need 3 or 4 perches. These should never be placed directly above the food or water bowls as this can lead to droppings landing in the bowls. You should also provide a covered bowl full of warm water 2-3 times a week which will be used as a bath. Alternatively, you can mist them gently with warm water. You will need some newspaper or something similar to line the bottom of the cage. This will need to be changed daily along with the food and water. Some birds will need a cover to be placed over their cage at night while others may need a “night light” to prevent “night fright” – excessive flapping and vocalization.
Cockatiels are a gentle and loving bird breed and love to be handled. They are better known or their ability to whistle than to talk however this does not mean that it Is not possible to train. Because cockatiels are social birds, they require at least 1 hour a day outside of their cage as well as spending time with people. Cockatiels love to be petted, especially on their head; however, they are not very fond of cuddling, instead they just wish to be near you. When outside of their cage they must always be under supervision to avoid dangers, such as drowning, injuries, toxic ingestion, etc.
There can be various reasons why birds develop the feather-picking habit. It could be that they are bored and are pacifying themselves through this habit. There can also be medical causes like diet, toxic exposures, and infections.
- does your bird eat a healthy diet?
- is the cage clean and comfortable?
- does your bird get sufficient mental stimulation?
- how much attention does your bird get?
- does your bird sleep enough, and on a consistent schedule?
Indoors- Start by closing all doors and windows of the room that they are in and, if possible, darken the room by turning off lights and closing curtains/blinds to help calm them. Avoid loud noises by refraining from sudden movements and attempt to place your hand over their body in a gentle manner. Pick them up slowly and place them back in their cage.
Outdoors- If in a near location place the cage outside with their favourite food/treat and water within. Leave the door open and from out-of-sight wait for them to re-enter their cage.
Implementing a daily routine that fits in with your own lifestyle allows the bird to quickly learn the time for feeding, foraging, entertainment and rest. Some things that should be included are:
- Offer fresh food and water once or twice a day and remove fresh items after 2-3 hours
- Change tray paper to maintain a clean and hygienic environment
- Observe birds for any unusual behaviour
- Clean up and around the cage
- Let birds out of the cage to enjoy household activities
Just like cats, small animals such as rats, rabbits and guinea pigs can easily be trained to use a litter box. Corner litter trays work better for rats due to its size but rabbits and guinea pigs require a full sized cat litter tray to make sure they have enough space. Wood or paper pellets should be used for litter. Never use clumping litter as it's dusty and can harm pets respiratory systems. Both rabbits and guinea pigs like to eat hay and poop at the same time, therefore if you add a small amount of hay to their litter box or hang the hay rack over the litter tray, it will make litter training a lot easier. Also, by putting some of their poo in the litter tray they will smell their scent and hopefully continue to use the litter box. You should aim to spot clean/change the litter box every 2-4 days to avoid it smelling. Another thing is to get your small animal desexed, this will eliminate spraying or marking their territory. There are also a lot of health benefits for desexing your small animal such as, the prevention of cancers in both male and females, to treat aggression and to be able to house a male and female together without the worry of offspring.
Bunnies can be extremely social and even trainable household pets if they are given the appropriate care. Most owners will litter box train their bunny and allow them to roam freely around their house. Some owners will even give their bunny an entire room! Others will let them into a large indoor or outdoor puppy playpen during the day. Typically, your bunny will need to be housed in a hutch overnight to ensure that they don’t endanger themselves while you are asleep. Bunnies need lots of room to run around so the hutch must be minimum of 6ft in length and 2ft in width and height. Their daytime roaming area of choice must be at least 2m2 and, if outside, must be set up in shelter/away from harsh breezes and have secure flooring that they cannot escape through. If you plan on allowing your bunny to roam freely through your house or one particular room, you must first “bunny proof” them. This means you must block or cove any electrical or phone cords, including plugs and outlets, use plastic to cover the corners and baseboards of the area, prepare to cover any furniture legs they take a liking to, and ensure that there is nowhere for your bunny to get themselves stuck.
Grass hays such as oaten, rye, timothy, and barley, will be the main part of your bunnies diet. This should be available to them at all times, even when they are out of their hutch. It is important not to feed your bunny legume hays as they have more calories, calcium, and protein than what is required, straw should also not be used as it is extremely nutrient deficient. Green foods such as broccoli, celery, romaine lettuce, and kale are great ways to assist your rabbits’ water intake. It is recommended to give your rabbit 3 varieties of green foods each day. Fruits and veggies can be used sparingly as daily treats, with the exception of bananas and grapes, which are known to prevent rabbits from eating anything else due to them simply loving it too much. Any commercial pellets should be fed in small portions, amounting to no more than 10% of your bunny’s diet. Don’t forget to include either a water bowl or bottle in the hutch for your bunny.
As mentioned earlier, bunnies can be litterbox trained quite easily. All you need to do is place a small litter box in a corner of their hutch and/or the corner of a room, preferably where they have already chosen to go, and place some dropping into the litterbox, as well as some hay, to encourage them to use it. Rabbits tend to go whilst they are eating so it is a good idea to place their food next to their litterbox. The best litter to use is wooden or recycled paper litter as this can be eaten without causing any harm. Your rabbit will also need somewhere to sleep. Some will be fine with some simple straw while others may need a hide to feel comfortable. This will entirely depend on your rabbit and which they prefer. Lastly, you will need to keep plenty of toys and wooden chews around for mental stimulation and to encourage chewing which will grind down their teeth.
To mimic what a bearded dragon experiences in the wild, they will need a UV-B (Ultraviolet type B) light and a heat lamp.
A UV-B light helps replicate the sun rays and is very important to your bearded dragon's health. Failure to provide the proper amount of UV-B can result in metabolic bone disease which in some cases can be fatal to your reptile.The heat lamp is to enable these cold-blooded creatures to regulate their body temperature. Sitting and basking beneath it is essential for their health.
Both lights should be on for at least 12 hours a day.
With Fish Fuel now discontinued, there are multiple different options when looking at whats best to feed your turtle. New brands of frozen turtle blocks such as A.I. Turtle Mix and Fish Tukka's Turtle Plus are good alternatives. Or if you are looking for something different, there are a variety of turtle pellets such as Nutrafin max or Tetra's Reptomin sticks. It is also possible to feed live feeder fish and this is a great way for your turtle to naturally hunt for it's dinner! Finally another good option would be live plants such as Purple waffle or Aluminium, both help to add a bit of decoration to your tank whilst making a great snack for your turtle.
If crickets are unavailable there are many other options to feed your reptile friend such as the Vetafarm Bearded Dragon pellets, Fish Fuel Bearded Dragon frozen cubes, dark leafy greens, and a small portion of mealworms to replace the insect protein provided by crickets. As an adult, only 20% of a Bearded Dragons diet should consist of insect proteins, meaning that crickets are not needed for your Beardie to have a healthy diet.
One of the first things to think about before setting up your Bearded Dragon’s home is the size of the enclosure you will be using. Generally, Bearded Dragons can grow to around 60cm including the tail. Therefore, the minimum recommended enclosure size is around 90cm long, 50cm wide, and 60cm high. Once you have chosen an enclosure, you should begin to think about some flooring for your reptile friend. A few easy-to-clean options include reptile carpet, newspaper/recycled paper, or paper towels. It is generally suggested to stay away from loose substrates as these can be easily digested and can potentially cause long term health issues.
Next, you will need to set up a UVB light as well as some sort of heating element, preferably a heat lamp over a heat mat. This is because Bearded Dragons cannot feel heat through their stomachs, making it very easy for them to burn themselves on a heat mat. A basking zone of between 31°C-38°C should also be included in your enclosure. This can simply be a rock or log large enough for them to rest on with a basking light and heat lamp directly above them.
Finally, shallow food and water bowls will need to be included in your Beardie’s enclosure and a pair of tweezers will need to be used to feed live food such as crickets, woodies, or mealworms.
When choosing a terrarium for your snake, you must first consider its size once it has reached maturity. The general rule is to ensure that the terrarium is, at minimum, 2/3 the full size of your snake. Some snakes will grow up to 100cm at maturity whereas others can reach 200cm or more, therefore it is important to research the size of your slithery friend. When looking for a terrarium you need to ensure that it is secure to prevent your snake from escaping and that it has plenty of ventilation. Most snake-specific terrariums will meet these requirements, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to achieve.
Once you have chosen an appropriately sized terrarium, you can begin to look at buying other necessities. Substrates such as desert sand, aspen, coconut fibre, soil, newspaper, and paper towels are all great and affordable options for flooring. Keep in mind, solid flooring (newspaper, paper towels) will be much easier to spot clean than loose substrates. You should also include some branches and vines for your snake to climb on as well as a few hidey holes like the lost city rock cave or hide.
All snakes will need a heating element of some sort, both heat mats and lamps are appropriate for snakes and have their own pros and cons. On top of this, a thermometer, humidifier, and a hygrometer are also recommended. Unlike most other reptiles, some snake species will not need a UVB light. Generally, lighter coloured and albino snakes will not need a UVB source, however it is important to research your snake species to confirm it is not needed.
Finally, you will need a water bowl which is large enough for your snake to submerge itself and a pair of tongs for feeding to avoid any accidental biting.
When choosing your tank, it is important to consider the size of your turtle once it reaches maturity. Keep in mind, your turtle should have at least 1.5x its length in water depth along with a basking area above the water level. For a fully grown turtle, the tank should be a minimum 90cm in length, however anything above 120cm is highly recommended. When buying a tank, it is important to buy a turtle-specific aquarium as fish aquariums have elements that may prevent the proper care of your turtle.
Once you have chosen your tank you can begin to set up for your turtle to move in. One of the most important factors of a turtle tank is a basking area with UVB lighting. This will allow your turtle to dry off whilst also absorbing the UVA and UVB it needs to prevent soft shell, which can cause major long-term health issues. The basking area can be made of logs and/or rocks, or you can buy a floating turtle dock for a quick and easy option, along with a UVB lamp and heat lamp. When setting up a basking area you must ensure that your turtle will have easy access both onto and off the surface. You should also provide a heater to help prevent your turtle hibernating thought the cooler seasons, as well as a filter to help keep your turtles environment nice and clean. Depending on the size of your tank, the Marina Aquarium Heater or the Bioscape Tropic Aquarium Heater are some great options for submersible heaters. Some great filter options for your new friend include the Marina Underwater Filter and the Fluval Internal Filter. Remember, always keep both your heater, and your filter, turned off unless they are fully submerged in water!
Finally, you can look at getting some substrate for the dry areas of the tank, plants, and little decorations to help your turtle tank look and feel more like a home. When choosing a substrate, it is important to consider that some turtles will eat the substrate. Due to this, sand or soft soil is typically the best option.
The most important step in building your Green Tree Frogs terrarium is choosing the terrarium itself. Green Tree Frogs will need to be housed in a 40L terrarium, if not larger. Keep in mind, frogs prefer height over length so the taller the better. It is important to note that frogs can live with many of the same species, however; they should not be kept with other reptiles or amphibians as this can create a stressful and dangerous environment for the frogs.
One you have chosen the appropriate terrarium; you will need to look for some sort of substrate. Coconut fiber substrate, otherwise known as COIR, is the most common substrate for amphibians. It is an organic and naturally occurring option obtained from the external husk of a coconut and is recyclable. On top of this, it holds moisture extremely well and is also soft to the touch with no rough edges, preventing any damage to your frog’s sensitive skin. Pebbles should be used in the water section of your terrarium. They should be large and course to avoid any swallowing risk. You can also cover the pebbles in moss as an extra form of prevention. All substrate matter needs to be kept moist and should be spot cleaned daily.
The key to creating a great home for your little green friend is to add lots of plants. Grasses, shrubs, small trees, and other vegetation will not only keep the ground cooler for them and help to maintain moisture, but they also make an excellent extra layer of protection for frogs, allowing them to feel safe from predators that would naturally occur in the wild. Your frogs will need a 10–12-hour day cycle. This can be done by simply turning the light on and off at the same time every day and keeping the terrarium out of direct sunlight. It is essential to note the importance of UVB lighting. UVB lighting assists in metabolising calcium and is needed for frogs to synthesise vitamin D. In fact, without a good source of UVB frogs are more likely to develop metabolic bone disease. The recommended globe for amphibians is around 2.0-5.0 depending on the species. A 10.0 UVB globe should never be used as the UVB output is too high and can cause permanent damage or even death to your frogs.
The suggested temperature climate for this species is roughly between 21-27 degrees Celsius throughout the day. Heat mats and heat lamps are both great ways to create what is known as a temperature gradient in your terrarium. An example of a good temperature gradient would be the far left of your terrarium sitting at 27°C while the far right is cooler. This can be done by placing the heat source on one side of the terrarium instead of the middle. This allows your green friend to move into cooler or warmer temperatures depending on how they feel.
Once all of that is sorted you can finish by decorating your terrarium. This can be done by adding other necessities such as a large, shallow water dish, more branches and plants for climbing, a thermometer and hygrometer to do daily checks, and a spray bottle to mist and maintain good humidity levels. Note that during summer the humidity of your frog’s terrarium should be around 50% whereas in winter it should drop to 30%.
Axolotls, also known as the walking fish, are a great and interactive aquatic pet that can live for up to 10 years provided they are given the correct care. Despite their incredibly friendly nature and cute appearance, your axolotl should never be handled unless it is absolutely necessary as their bodies and skin can very easily be damaged. When housing a single axolotl, you need to ensure that they have a minimum tank size of 60cm in length, adding a further 30cm for each axolotl you decide to add. For example, 2 axolotls will need a 90cm tank, 3 will need 120cm, and so on. However, it is important to note that axolotls are best kept in solidarity but if you wish to have more than one, you must ensure that they are of the same sex. If two axolotls of opposite sex are kept in the same tank, the male will overbreed with the female, stressing her out, which may cause many health issues.
Besides a good aquarium filter, you don’t need any other special equipment to care for an axolotl; however, they will require frequent tank maintenance and cycles due to their sensitivity to different water conditions. Keep in mind, axolotls do not like strong currents; therefore, it is important to have a spray bar outlet to diffuse the water pressure. If your water current is too strong, your axolotl will be put off from eating and will develop stress-related diseases. Lack of appetite and gills which are curled towards the front of their body are typically signs of stress caused by too much water flow. Axolotls do not emerge from water so a dedicated land section would go unused. Air stones are also necessary to provide oxygen, especially for younger axolotls. Your aquarium should either have no substrate, a layer of fine sand or large rocks which are bigger than the axolotl’s head. Typical aquarium gravel or stones are not suitable for axolotls as they will ingest them, which can cause a variety of health issues. You can add pieces of driftwood, rocks, and live plants into your aquarium to provide hiding places for your axolotl; however, you must ensure that the plants are strong and well planted. Caves and terracotta pots are some other good hide options. A heater is not a necessity for axolotls as they do best in water between 16-18°C and should never be kept in water above 24°C although adding a heater will help to limit frequent temperature fluctuations. Axolotls also prefer little to no lighting due to their sensitive eyes. If you want lights for growing plants or viewing, make sure that you provide plenty of hiding spaces and a minimum of 12 hours darkness for your axolotl.
An easy choice of food for your axolotl is the Fish Fuel axolotl food or any brand of frozen bloodworms. You should avoid any live foods such as feeder fish as they may carry certain parasites and diseases which your axolotl may be susceptible to. You can even treat your axolotl to cooked frozen shrimp from your local supermarket every now and then.
Phoenix pet food is designed to help nourish your pets for a better life by providing tasty, wholesome and nutritious food that allows your pet to flourish.
For more information please follow the link to their website.
GMO stands for Genetically Modified Organisms. These organisms have been artificially manipulated for agricultural requirements.
The traditional prey model diet is based on a source of high protein fresh meat. Dogs may be omnivores, but they rely heavily on protein to help them survive and thrive. Protein contains essential amino acids that are crucial to the process of cell production. Without enough protein in their diet, dogs can develop a host of health problems. Protein helps build and repair muscles and other body tissue.
Single source protein foods can be used as an elimination diet to help diagnose potential food allergies and intolerances due to the limited high-quality ingredients in the product.
Superfoods are foods, mostly plant-based but also some fish and dairy, that are known to be nutritionally dense and thus good for health. Superfoods such as kale provide a selection of essential nutrients in a single, easily digested package.
EPA and DHA are found in fish and other seafood and they help to increase levels of omega-3 fatty acids in the bloodstream. These help with eye health in your dog as the eye cells and membranes are rich in EPA and DHA and DHA is required for the normal development and function in the eye, in particular the retina. Other benefits of EPA and DHA include: healthy skin, improved immune system and decreased immune system.
- Less risk of intolerance and digestive upsets
- Includes more digestible sources of carbohydrates
- No filler's, just nutrient dense quality ingredients
Vitamin E is a fat-soluble nutrient that works to protect cells from naturally occurring molecules. These molecules called "free radicals" are produced naturally by metabolic processes but can damage cell membranes, proteins and DNA. By protecting membranes etc. it keep the body healthy and reduces skin flakiness, promoting a smooth and glossy coat.
Foods that contain lean meats are great for overweight dogs. Most common ingredients include turkey and kangaroo. Products like Hills’ Perfect Weight and Light, and Royal Canin’s Light Weight Care Range are ideal for overweight dogs. Ivory Coat Turkey is a reduced fat formula that is suitable for overweight and senior dogs. TIP: When feeding your pet, particularly pets that are overweight, use the daily feeding guide and be strict with it, limiting treats and other food sources outside of their main diet. When measuring your pet’s food, consider their ideal weight and not their current weight.
Arthritis is a very common problem amongst older dogs and can be seen by them being slower to get to their feet especially is the morning or cooler weather. Some products to help your dog with the pain of arthritis include: Osteocare, which targets joint cartilage health; Rapigel targets inflammation and swelling in joints and tendons and Pernaease powder is a natural supplement to relieve arthritic symptoms. Some food products to assist with healthy joint mobility are Hills Healthy mobility and Ziwi Peak which contains green lipped mussels.
Depending on the specific issue or what specific problems you need to prevent depends on which product is best for you. Drontal Allwormer controls gastrointestinal worms and tapeworms; Advocate and Revolution treats fleas, heartworm and worms and Troy worm syrup is a palatable syrup for the removal of roundworms.
Dental problems are very common among cats so by using Troy plaque off powder for cats you can help maintain oral hygiene, prevent the build up of tartar, gingivitis and bad breath and can be applied in conjunction with brushing. If looking for a more frequent way to help, Hills Oral Care includes a unique kibble that works to clean dog teeth and freshen breath with every bite.
Green lipped mussels are a 100% rich, natural source of glucosamine, chondroitin, glycogens and omega 3 fatty acids that have been proven to support healthy joints long-term. Many cats and dogs face joint inflammation and osteoarthritis at some point in their life, so by obtaining a natural source of nutritional supplements some of their pain can be relieved. All Ziwi Peak products contain green lipped mussels as well as the Pernaease powder as found in store.
Dogs are highly susceptible to ear infections as they spend a lot of time outdoors and often dirt, dust and other foreign objects can become lodged inside your dog’s ear. Once present in the ear it can become irritated and eventually infected. We stock several types of ear cleaner such as Petwayear cleaner, Epi Otic ear cleaner and Yours Droolly ear cleaner.
It is not unusual for pets to experience anxiety with varying degrees and ways it is manifested. We offer Complete Calm chews as an edible option to support the general health of nervous dogs. As well as the Adaptil range for dogs and Feliway range for cats as an excellent solution to help them feel comforted and safe at home and on the move.
Cats are obligate carnivores, meaning that they have to eat meat but food such as Hill’s Perfect Weight or Royal Canin Ultra Light are designed at weight management nutrition, helping your cat lose weight. Other strategies include increasing engaged play time where short, aerobic bursts increase their daily exercise or provide a treat ball rather than simply providing them a treat.
SHMP (sodium hexametaphosphate) has been shown to be highly effective in reducing dental calculus and tartar. This is found in Phoenix Ocean Fish & Barramundi dog food. Another ingredient used is a specially selected seaweed Ascophyllum nodosum. It offers a natural way to help reduce plaque, tartar and bad breath. This seaweed is specifically used in Troy Plaque Off which we have in store.
Going on a road trip is very exciting for dogs as they get to experience various new sights and smells! However, to avoid chaos, it is wise to make sure that their energy is well spent beforehand so that they won’t try and expend it whilst in the car. Another idea is to buy them a lasting entertainment toy that will keep them occupied. This might include a stuffed Kong, tennis ball or a nylabone. You should also encourage your dog to go to the toilet at every stop you take and keep a close eye on them at other times. A consideration to keep in mind is the time of the day that may be best for your dog to remain calm and at rest.
Whilst for each pet accessory needs will be different, certain essentials should be packed including:
- Food and water bowels
- Waste scoop
- Waste bags
- Grooming supplies
- First-aid supplies
- Vaccination records
There are many pet-friendly camping and caravanning spots around Australia that you and your dog can enjoy! But it is wise to make sure that your dog is up to date with all vaccinations and treatments as they can be more exposed whilst camping. This includes tick, flea and worming treatments which can easily be bought in store. Try to minimise or eliminate any hazards around your dog such as campfires, sport equipment and stagnant water. Also be aware of nearby veterinary clinics in case your dog gets injured or becomes ill on your trip.
Continuum Flora.viv is a wide range, multi-nutrient fertiliser specifically for planted, freshwater aquariums. It contains all the nutrients that freshwater plants require to grow except phosphorous and nitrogen as they are only needed in specific circumstances. With no toxic polycycloglutaracetal or glutaraldehyde it allows plants to grow naturally in a pleasant environment. Another similar option is Continuum flora.viv grow which is designed more specifically to help accelerate plant growth.
The yellowing and general transparency are both symptoms of iron deficiency which can be fixed using flora.viv Fe, though testing is recommended to confirm. Flora.viv Fe is a concentrated, bio-available, timed-release iron supplement for freshwater planted aquariums. As biological reactions occur iron II and iron III is released to supplement your planted aquarium. It contains no dangerous polycycloglutaracetal or glutaraldehyde which allows your plants to flourish in a more natural environment.